Saturday, June 25, 2016
We had a quick continental breakfast outside before touring the sites of Copenhagen. Our first stop was the grand Christiansborg Palace, on the tiny island of Slotsholmen. It contains the Danish Parliament Folketinget, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State. Parts of the palace are used by the Royal Family for various functions and events. The Royal Reception Rooms include The Tower Room and The Oval Throne Room where foreign ambassadors to Denmark are received by the Queen.
We had planned to have lunch here but instead walked along the river to the Amalienborg Palace, considered one of the greatest works of Danish Rococco architecture. Constructed in the 1700s, it is made up of four identical buildings: Christian VII’s Palace used as a guest residence, Christian VIII’s Palace used as guest palace for Prince Joachim and Princess Benedikte, Frederik VIII’s Palace, home of the Crown Prince's family and Christian IX’s Palace, home of the Queen and Prince Consort. In the middle of the palace square there is a 1771 statue of King Frederik V. There are no visible links between the residences. Seamus leaned up against one of the buildings to read his map in the shade and got yelled at by a guard.
Later we walked a little way along the high-end part of Copenhagen's largest shopping area around Strøget in the heart of the city. Strøget is one of Europe's longest pedestrian streets. Of course it was Sunday and all the shops were shut. This was quite incredible as the street was jammed with people.
By now it was late in the afternoon and we hadn't eaten. We stopped at an outdoor restaurant and had a very welcome beer and local fish with dill sauce. As big fans of Scandi-noir it would have been nice to take a bus trip across to Malmö in Sweden across "the Bridge”. But there were no busses running on Sunday, and the train runs under the main bridge deck and would not have given the same views.
In the evening, another movie, this time enjoying George Clooney and Julia Roberts in Money Monster.
The museum is made up of two main sections: the Viking Ship Hall, where the vessels are kept; and the Boatyard, where archaeological work takes place. The five Viking vessels originate from a blockade approximately 20 km north of Roskilde. They were deliberately sunk in a shallow channel during the 11th-century to block enemy attacks. Roskilde was the capital of Denmark at that time.
In the boatyard the traditions and culture of the Viking Age are brought to life, especially by the building of replica boats using authentic materials and techniques. Some of these are used in sea voyages to research Viking travels. We were able to board one, loaded with bales of trade goods. There are also exhibitions of other crafts, such as rope-making.
In Denmark boats were also subject to influences from Southwest Europe. Larger vessels that plied international trade routes gradually became heavier in design, enabling them to carry more cargo, and developments in rigging led to smaller crews.
On site was a restaurant whose menu was based on older more traditional food. We both had an open faced gravad lax — marinated salmon — topped with dill sandwich. Delicious. It was a beautiful day for a sail in a Viking ship but sadly by the time the reluctant rower changed his mind the tickets were sold out.
We retraced our steps hoping to visit Roskilde Cathedral, where 40 members of the Danish Royal family are buried. Unfortunately, there was a wedding taking place so we couldn't see inside. By now it was very hot. We walked back through the town hoping to do some shopping but it was Saturday afternoon and the shops were closed.
Back in Copenhagen we ended our day at the cinema — it is a are treat for us to be able to see movies in English. We saw the spy thriller, Our Kind of Traitor. We could have gone to Tivoli Gardens instead, but the crowds around the entrance gates discouraged us —too many loud, shirtless men often covered in tattoos and carrying Tuborgs. A quiet evening with Ewan MacGregor was much better.
Wednesday, June 15, 2016
We navigated the sloping floors, waves and wind as we viewed the interactive and atmospheric exhibitions of life at sea in old fishing boats. With the howling wind it was like being back in the Port. Then it was on to see Denmark's role as one of the world's leading shipping nations throughout the ages from a personal and historical viewpoint. There was a big display of the technology that has made it possible to navigate the oceans — compasses, sextants, astrolabes, compasses, depth sounders, parallel rulers and even traverse boards, made of pieces of string and wood, where sailors would mark their course according to the half-hourly compass readings. The interactive displays allowed you to help a captain find latitude and longitude using classical navigational tools.
Displays showed how shipping has connected the world from the 1700s up until the present, where more than 90% of all goods are transported by sea before reaching our shopping baskets. We could even have received a real sailor tattoo - that comes off again. We didn't.
It was time for some much needed refreshment in the ultramodern cafe looking out over the bottom of the dry dock. I had a cold rhubarb drink, which was a bit sweet and we shared a rhubarb tart. Delicious. Rhubarb is something we never see in Spain so it was quite a treat.
Back in Copenhagen later in the evening we walked to the old Meatpacking District in Vesterbro, one of Copenhagen’s most popular places to go out. It used to be home to Copenhagen’s meat industry and still consists of three separate areas, referred to as the White, Grey and Brown "Meat City" for the dominant colour of their buildings. In recent years it has changed into a new creative cluster with a trendy nightlife and a broad range of high quality restaurants. We aren't used to arriving at eating places before eight o'clock at the earliest. Unfortunately for us, the place was jam packed with people taking advantage of the warm weather to have their dinner outside. We settled for a lovely authentic Thai dinner a short distance away from the hubbub of the meat packing district.
Once we arrived in Elsinore we decided to wander around its many charming pedestrian streets and find lunch. There were lots of interesting little shops. We settled for lunch outdoors at a restaurant full of locals. We opted for a platter with three open faced sandwiches: smoked salmon with dill; small shrimps; and breaded fish with a delicious mustard sauce. A glass of white wine completed the delicious meal.
Frederik II's Kronborg is at once an elegant castle and a monumental military fortress surrounded by considerable fortifications. It has not been inhabited by the royal family since the late 1600s. The castle houses collections of Renaissance and Baroque furnishings, and among the main attractions is the 62-metre ballroom, the very well-preserved chapel and the royal apartments. We found them all quite austere compared to royal living quarters in other parts of Europe.
Finally, we visited the Hamlet exhibition, which displayed photos of the many actors who had played Hamlet on stage and screen over the years. Back in the courtyard I had time to have my picture taken with Polonius, chief counselor of the king.