Saturday, June 25, 2016

Copenhagen tourist trail to Palaces, a mermaid and gentrified fishing port

It was another incredibly hot day in Copenhagen. Every night we were kept up by people partying while others rummaged around in garbage bins for cans and bottles to recycle for money so they could continue partying. We saw many people searching in rubbish bins for recycling while we were in Copenhagen. While some seemed to be down-and-out, for others it looked like regular employment. We weren't sure what to make of this. We saw many street people including some with apparent mental health issues.

We had a quick continental breakfast outside before touring the sites of Copenhagen. Our first stop was the grand Christiansborg Palace, on the tiny island of Slotsholmen. It contains the Danish Parliament Folketinget, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State. Parts of the palace are used by the Royal Family for various functions and events. The Royal Reception Rooms include The Tower Room and The Oval Throne Room where foreign ambassadors to Denmark are received by the Queen.

From here we went to Nyhavn. The last time I was there I stayed in the newly opened Nyhvn hotel in a converted warehouse. A quiet walk to catch the bus usually involved avoiding passed out sailors in doorways. It was an area with character. Today we found Nyhavn totally overcrowded with lots of locals and tourists having lunch or waiting to board river cruise boats. The small hotel was now shrouded in plastic for renovations and was four times the size I remembered.

We had planned to have lunch here but instead walked along the river to the Amalienborg Palace, considered one of the greatest works of Danish Rococco architecture. Constructed in the 1700s, it is made up of four identical buildings: Christian VII’s Palace used as a guest residence, Christian VIII’s Palace used as guest palace for Prince Joachim and Princess Benedikte, Frederik VIII’s Palace, home of the Crown Prince's family and Christian IX’s Palace, home of the Queen and Prince Consort. In the middle of the palace square there is a 1771 statue of King Frederik V. There are no visible links between the residences. Seamus leaned up against one of the buildings to read his map in the shade and got yelled at by a guard.

We took the bus to see the sculpture of The Little Mermaid. Unveiled on 23 August 1913, The Little Mermaid was a gift from Danish brewer Carl Jacobsen to the City of Copenhagen. The sculpture is made of bronze and granite and was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale about a mermaid who gives up everything to be united with a young, handsome prince. Every morning and evening she swims to the surface from the bottom of the sea and, perched on her rock in the water, she stares longingly towards the shore hoping to catch a glimpse of her beloved prince. Carl Jacobsen fell in love with the character after watching a ballet performance based on the fairy tale at the Royal Danish Theatre in Copenhagen. The brewer was so captivated by both the fairy tale and the ballet that he commissioned the sculptor Edvard Eriksen to create a sculpture of the mermaid.

Later we walked a little way along the high-end part of Copenhagen's largest shopping area around Strøget in the heart of the city. Strøget is one of Europe's longest pedestrian streets. Of course it was Sunday and all the shops were shut. This was quite incredible as the street was jammed with people.

By now it was late in the afternoon and we hadn't eaten. We stopped at an outdoor restaurant and had a very welcome beer and local fish with dill sauce. As big fans of Scandi-noir it would have been nice to take a bus trip across to Malmö in Sweden across "the Bridge”. But there were no busses running on Sunday, and the train runs under the main bridge deck and would not have given the same views.

In the evening, another movie, this time enjoying George Clooney and Julia Roberts in Money Monster.

Roskilde Viking Ship museum inspires the imagination

Today we were visiting Roskilde, the site of the Viking ship museum, a short train ride away. We walked through the cobblestone pedestrian streets stopping for a coffee and a piece of what looked like a cross between a nutty bread, or cake. It tasted good but was very dry. The locals in the little cafe laughed when we said it was a little dry and might taste better with some jam. In fact it was incredibly dry. We window shopped our way along the street with the intention of coming back and buying some shorts and t shirts and exploring further the book shop which had lots of English language books.

It was a beautiful walk down towards the Viking museum. We passed lovely old, ochre-colored half timbered houses before walking along a pathway through lots of wild bushes and lush green trees. Lots of people were enjoying the sunny day in the park. Finally we reached the museum. We opted not to buy tickets to go out for a sail in a small replicaViking ship as someone didn't want to do any rowing.

The museum is made up of two main sections: the Viking Ship Hall, where the vessels are kept; and the Boatyard, where archaeological work takes place. The five Viking vessels originate from a blockade approximately 20 km north of Roskilde. They were deliberately sunk in a shallow channel during the 11th-century to block enemy attacks. Roskilde was the capital of Denmark at that time.

In the boatyard the traditions and culture of the Viking Age are brought to life, especially by the building of replica boats using authentic materials and techniques. Some of these are used in sea voyages to research Viking travels. We were able to board one, loaded with bales of trade goods. There are also exhibitions of other crafts, such as rope-making.

In addition to Viking ships, the museum collection includes a large number of Scandinavian fishing boats that all have their roots in the open, slender, clinker-built Viking ships. This kinship can most clearly be seen in the boats from the Faeroe Isles, from Norway and from Sweden. Boats from Finland and the Shetland Isles also clearly show their connection to the ships of the Vikings.

In Denmark boats were also subject to influences from Southwest Europe. Larger vessels that plied international trade routes gradually became heavier in design, enabling them to carry more cargo, and developments in rigging led to smaller crews.

On site was a restaurant whose menu was based on older more traditional food. We both had an open faced gravad lax — marinated salmon — topped with dill sandwich. Delicious. It was a beautiful day for a sail in a Viking ship but sadly by the time the reluctant rower changed his mind the tickets were sold out.

We retraced our steps hoping to visit Roskilde Cathedral, where 40 members of the Danish Royal family are buried. Unfortunately, there was a wedding taking place so we couldn't see inside. By now it was very hot. We walked back through the town hoping to do some shopping but it was Saturday afternoon and the shops were closed.

Back in Copenhagen we ended our day at the cinema — it is a are treat for us to be able to see movies in English. We saw the spy thriller, Our Kind of Traitor. We could have gone to Tivoli Gardens instead, but the crowds around the entrance gates discouraged us —too many loud, shirtless men often covered in tattoos and carrying Tuborgs. A quiet evening with Ewan MacGregor was much better.

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Maritime heritage beautifully displayed at new museum

Only a few minutes from the castle was the Maritime Museum of Denmark. Since opening in 2013, it has won a number of international awards for its exhibitions and architecture. The underground building is placed around a former dry dock creating a natural connection between the exhibitions and the history outside.

We navigated the sloping floors, waves and wind as we viewed the interactive and atmospheric exhibitions of life at sea in old fishing boats. With the howling wind it was like being back in the Port. Then it was on to see Denmark's role as one of the world's leading shipping nations throughout the ages from a personal and historical viewpoint. There was a big display of the  technology that has made it possible to navigate the oceans — compasses, sextants, astrolabes, compasses, depth sounders, parallel rulers and even traverse boards, made of pieces of string and wood, where sailors would mark their course according to the half-hourly compass readings. The interactive displays allowed you to help a captain find latitude and longitude using classical navigational tools.

Displays showed how shipping has connected the world from the 1700s up until the present, where more than 90% of all goods are transported by sea before reaching our shopping baskets. We could even have received a real sailor tattoo - that comes off again. We didn't.

It was time for some much needed refreshment in the ultramodern cafe looking out over the bottom of the dry dock. I had a cold rhubarb drink, which was a bit sweet and we shared a rhubarb tart. Delicious. Rhubarb is something we never see in Spain so it was quite a treat.

Back in Copenhagen later in the evening we walked to the old Meatpacking District in Vesterbro, one of Copenhagen’s most popular places to go out. It used to be home to Copenhagen’s meat industry and still consists of three separate areas, referred to as the White, Grey and Brown "Meat City" for the dominant colour of their buildings. In recent years it has changed into a new creative cluster with a trendy nightlife and a broad range of high quality restaurants. We aren't used to arriving at eating places before eight o'clock at the earliest. Unfortunately for us, the place was jam packed with people taking advantage of the warm weather to have their dinner outside. We settled for a lovely authentic Thai dinner a short distance away from the hubbub of the meat packing district.

Copenhagen: we dodge partyers and visit Hamlet's castle

Just over a week ago we arrived in Copenhagen, a city I hadn't been to for a very long time. When we arrived there were hordes of people walking and cycling down the street. What was going on? We found out that there were four nights of music festivals being held in various parts of the city and tonight was the district we were staying in. Later, when we sat outside having dinner the hordes kept coming and coming. There was a fair bit of drinking going on but no one was really unruly. Several people were sitting in boxes attached to the fronts of bikes. Often the boxes would have three or four people in them. There was a huge amount of litter and cigarette butts everywhere.

The next morning we woke up to a beautiful, hot sunny day so we decided to take the train to Elsinore. The trip on the train was lovely as it ran parallel to the sea. As we passed through little towns and villages we couldn't help but notice the homes with their high, sharp sloping roofs and lovely gardens. In fact everything was a lovely green.

Once we arrived in Elsinore we decided to wander around its many charming pedestrian streets and find lunch. There were lots of interesting little shops. We settled for lunch outdoors at a restaurant full of locals. We opted for a platter with three open faced sandwiches: smoked salmon with dill; small shrimps; and breaded fish with a delicious mustard sauce. A glass of white wine completed the delicious meal.

Now it was time to roam back along the marina to Kronberg Castle, probably the most famous Danish castle, known worldwide from Shakespeare's Hamlet. Hamlet's spirit is still roaming the hallways of Kronborg, and today we encountered actors performing scenes from Hamlet in and around the courtyard.

Frederik II's Kronborg is at once an elegant castle and a monumental military fortress surrounded by considerable fortifications. It has not been inhabited by the royal family since the late 1600s. The castle houses collections of Renaissance and Baroque furnishings, and among the main attractions is the 62-metre ballroom, the very well-preserved chapel and the royal apartments. We found them all quite austere compared to royal living quarters in other parts of Europe.

Beneath Kronberg are the gloomy Casemates, which served as soldiers' quarters during times of war. These dark and damp rooms accommodated up to 1,000 men with enough supplies to withstand a six-week siege. We could see the large stone vessels used for supplies. Still down in the Casemates, we saw the statue  of Denmark's legendary hero, Holger the Dane, who sits dormant but ready to stir into action the minute the Kingdom of Denmark is threatened by an enemy.

Finally, we visited the Hamlet exhibition, which displayed photos of the many actors who had played Hamlet on stage and screen over the years. Back in the courtyard I had time to have my picture taken with Polonius, chief counselor of the king.