Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Rain doesn't dampen charm of Bosa

We set off bright and early this morning traveling south on the coastal road to the town of Bosa. First we hugged the coast admiring the rollers crashing in on the rocky shore. Further south the road climbed the mountains that were a mixture of volcanic rock and sandstone. Lots of yellow wild flowers dotted the landscape along with some nameless almost lime green bushes and the ubiquitous maquis.

Bosa is a colourful town with all the houses painted in different vibrant colours. The main street, paved with stone, which runs parallel to the River Temo, is lined with aristocratic buildings and goldsmiths' workshops, where filigree and coral jewellry are made. Wood carving is an ancient Sardinian tradition. We visited one gallery filled with a variety of  masks of all shapes, sizes and colours.

It was raining when we visited the Bosa market, with its wonderful fruits, vegetables and flowers. The cheeses were enticing, especially the smoked cachiavella. They even had wild boar.

Our next stop was the Castello die Malaspina, which dominates the skyline. It is quite impressive even though just the towers and outer walls survive. Although the castle was built in the 1100s, it was taken over by the Aragonese in the 1300s. There is some restoration going on inside the walls. By this time it was raining and hailing as we were walking the ramparts admiring the view over the town and the Temo. I was hanging on to the railings trying not to do a Mary Poppins. We found refuge from the weather in the church, the only building remaining intact inside the walls. In 1976 some beautiful, intact frescos were found during a renovation. We walked back to the car in a light drizzle having worked up an appetite for lunch.

We stopped at a restaurant on the other side of the Temo with a view over to Bosa. Our first course, which we shared, was a beautiful sepia nero (squid ink) pasta with little clams, tomatoes and small shrimps. It was wonderful. For main course I had some grilled shrimps and Seamus had bolito misto, deep fried shrimp, sardines, octopus, squid and some other fish followed by a very short espresso. What a meal!

We stopped to admire beautiful sandy beaches at Bosa Marina before retracing our route back to Alghero in more rain and some hail. It was good to be back at the hotel for a swim in the hot salt water pool. We particularly enjoyed the hamman that is built like a cave with a cold rainwater shower in the middle, when it becomes too hot. Invigorating!

After being drenched in a short downpour, while wandering around the town, I had a lovely bowl of artichoke soup for dinner. A perfect ending to an interesting day.

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