Wednesday, March 21, 2012
A day in Trapani and Elice
Our first full day in Sicily. After breakfast we decided to retrace our steps by walking around the pedestrian only, old part of Trapani. Daylight, but once again the very elegant shops were shut. Monday. Then it was off to Erice in the car and what a ride that was. The rules of the road are quite often only guidelines to Italians but I must say in several visits to all parts of Italy, I have never seen anything like it. Cars would come lunging out of side streets challenging your right of way and most often just ignoring it. This was made all the more hairy by vendors selling lovely artichokes, cauliflowers, watermelons and seafoods out of the back of their trucks, then the really slow three-wheeler 'apes' screeching very slowly along the road.
Back in town we had sea bream and swordfish for lunch before driving to the port, where most of the fishing fleet was tied up five abreast. As we were walking around we noticed a few dogs lying around. Suddenly, a car they knew drew up and for some reason we were surrounded by these dogs barking viciously at us. One actually tried to nip Seamus. We kept going and eventually they left and visited their friend but it was a bit disconcerting. Tonight we went on a WiFi search to no avail. However, the shops were now open and the streets filled with people. Dinner was poached branzino or sea-bass in wine with parsley and garlic and a selection of calamari, crayfish and baby squid for Seamus. Once again we started with caponata. So far I think the meals back in our little corner of Spain are as good and are certainly cheaper but the Sicilian pastries and the marzipan are bellissimo!